Do you feel like your wheels don't spin as smoothly as they used to, or do you feel a slight vibration when you ride? It's probably time to service your hubs. However, regular workshop wrenches won't be enough for this job. Due to their extremely thin profile (often only around 2 mm), cone wrenches are the only tool that will fit into the narrow grooves of your hub's cones.
Why can't you do without them during service?
Most classic hubs, especially those from Shimano, use a cone and locknut system. If you want to clean, lubricate, or just adjust the clearance of the bearings, you have to hold the cone firmly while tightening the locknut with your other hand. A regular wrench is too thick and you simply can't get it between the nuts. With a quality cone wrench, you can be sure that you'll adjust the hub precisely – neither too loose nor too tight, which could permanently damage your bearings.
What sizes of cone wrenches should you have in your workshop?
Although there are many dimensions, the most common ones you will encounter are:
13 mm and 14 mm: You will mostly use these for the front hubs.
15mm and 17mm: These are the standard sizes for rear hubs. To be sure, measure the grooves on your hubs before purchasing to make sure you get the right size for your bike.
Is one key enough for you or do you need a pair?
It's ideal to have two of each size you use. When adjusting a hub, you often need one wrench on one side of the axle to hold it in place and the other on the opposite side to tighten it. If you only have one, the job will be much more complicated, and you won't be able to "align" the bearings properly.
Can you also use a cone wrench to loosen pedals or other tight screws?
Definitely don't do this. Cone wrenches are designed for fine mechanics and precise adjustment of bearings. Because they are very thin, they could easily bend or tear off the edges of the nut if you apply too much force. Always use a special 15 mm pedal wrench or Allen key for pedals.
Are cone wrenches necessary for all types of hubs?
No. If your bike uses hubs with industrial (encapsulated) bearings (such as some models from DT Swiss or Novatec), you probably won't need a cone wrench. These bearings are usually completely press-fit and don't have a cone and locknut system.
How do you know if your cartridge is too tight?
When you have tightened the hub with the cone wrenches, hold the axle in your fingers and try to turn it. It must turn completely smoothly and without resistance. If you feel a slight "jerk" or rattling, you have tightened the hub too much. If, on the other hand, the axle in the hub swings to the sides, there is play there that needs to be tightened gently.
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